Published: 26 January, 2012
by LOTTIE MOGGACH

Méribel Brasserie, a new French restaurant under Camden Road overground station, has been a long time coming.

Throughout last summer, the building looked finished, but in the end it was nearer Christmas when its doors were finally unlocked.

It’s obvious a large amount of money and effort has been spent on the place, and in the right way, too.

At the front of the room is a café/takeaway area, and at the back an open kitchen – in between the owners have shown a bit of imagination.

The pièce de résistance is the specially commissioned ceiling: a patchwork of very bright clashing patterns, like layers of wallpaper in a house occupied by generations of psychedelic freaks.

There were other nice touches: light shades made out of crystal decanters which, you imagine, tinkle gently when trains pass overhead.

It’s the kind of place where you can’t wait to see what they’ve done in the toilets, and, indeed, the ladies hosted a pair of antique double sinks conjoined at the head, rather than the sides as is usual.

They aren’t trying to recoup the cost of the interior design through the menu prices, either: Starters are around the £7 mark and mains in the mid teens.

And the food is very good. This is unapologetically heavy French fare – what my friend described as “food you can’t have sex after” – along the lines of fondue, Toulouse sausage cassoulet and entrecote steak with dauphinoise.

Those on a diet must just give in, or else order the one healthy thing on the menu – catch of the day with broccoli and new potatoes – and feel covetous towards their companion’s plate.

I started with scallops gratin in the shell, while my friend’s moules were big and plump.

Next she had the steak, while my “medium” lamb chops, arrived pink.

By this stage we were so full we could barely talk – even about sex  – but managed to squeeze in a tarte tatin with strawberry ice cream.

In short, then, Méribel is a great-looking place with very decent food – oh, and a reasonable wine list, too.

Service was also friendly and efficient.

So, should we be anxious about its future?

As many annoying property TV shows have informed us, it’s all in the location.

Méribel may be only five minutes’ from Camden Town tube but it’s a five-minute walk along the fun-devoid Camden Road, and I can’t imagine they’ll have much passing trade.

But, let’s hope the local residents  – and fondue fans who make a special trip – can keep this good place going.

Summary: Substantial French food
under Camden Road station.
Around £30 a head.

Méribel Brasserie
47-49 Camden Road, NW1 9LS
020 7267 7360
www.meribelbrasserie.com