Published: 10 November, 2011
by LOTTIE MOGGACH

PRIOR to the opening of The French School in Holmes Road, I was authoritatively informed that les Français avec les enfants were snapping up every spare property between Camden and Archway, and harboured a hope that this influx of expats would have a sophisticating influence on the neighbourhood.

Well, the school has been open for a few months now, and, to misquote PG Wodehouse, it’s still not difficult to distinguish between NW5 and the Latin Quarter.

Kazim Yildirim, the owner of Café Renoir in Kentish Town High Street – where one might expect these exotic newcomers to congregate – confirms that there hasn’t been as much custom as expected from the new school.

Well, it’s their loss.

The long-established cafe has had a bit of a makeover recently, much to its benefit.

Once more of a sandwich shop, there is now a focus on healthy foods – salads, fish and the like – and a slightly more upmarket feel.

Before, it was very much a daytime place; now, it’s open for dinner until 10pm. In other words, it’s gone a bit more Continental.

For lunch, I had a very decent sea bass fillet stuffed with spinach and served with roasted cherry tomatoes and salad, some freshly squeezed juice and – because it had all been a bit too healthy – some cheesecake for pudding.

They’re still doing their crêpes, named after Post-Impressionists. Monet and Renoir get one each, but Toulouse-Lautrec gets two: some posthumous consolation for his short and blighted life.

The décor has been toned down a bit from its old reds and yellows, but the nice eccentric touches remain: the rather naff copies of Renoir paintings and the display cabinets of wine embraced by quirky bottle stands.

The Lowryesque mural of Paris in the back room has also been preserved.

At the counter are attractive displays of salads and fruit; above it, boxes of posh cereal and wholegrain pasta and bottles of olive oil and pomegranate juice.

The atmosphere is both relaxed and lively... if that isn’t a contradiction in terms.

Yildirim, who is originally from Turkey and now lives in Muswell Hill, bought Renoir 17 years ago.

He told me that he decided to give the place a healthier focus because of his belief in the importance of diet on wellbeing.

His own family enjoys good health, and he believes this is down to their intake of wholesome, homemade, unprocessed food.

So, he decided to change tack at the café, even though profit margins are much lower for salads than for sandwiches.
“I’m not making huge amounts of money, but I’m comfortable with that,” he said.

“It’s important to feel morally good about your work.”

Likewise, he has resisted putting up photos of his famous regulars, such as Jon Snow, to tempt in customers.

“It might be good for business, but I want to keep things simple, have word-of-mouth recommendations.”

Well, here’s one: Café Renoir has all the right ingredients. Maybe we don’t need the French to give us a café society.

Summary: NW5 old favourite has a successful makeover. Main courses £6-£10.

Cafe Renoir
244 Kentish Town Road, NW5 2AB
020 7485 7186
www.caferenoir.co.uk
Open: Monday-Saturday, 8am-10pm Sunday, 8am-7pm