Published: 30 June, 2011
by MATTHEW LEWIN

WHEN I tasted “George’s chips”, I automatically assumed that George was a specialist in the kitchen who had trained at the A1 chip stall in Antwerp – which as everyone knows makes the best chips in the world.

But before I could make a complete ass of myself, I was gently reminded that the architect of this truly great building was one George Gilbert Scott, and the chips are named after him. A fitting tribute, I thought, for these were the best chips I have ever eaten in Britain, and George, looking down, must be right proud.

And my goodness this is a splendid building. The restaurant is housed in what was the entrance hall of the old St Pancras Hotel. It’s a large, curved room with tall windows, ornate marble columns and a king’s ransom of gold leaf detailing the elaborate cornices of the hand-painted ceiling.

Because of its size, Marcus Wareing has wisely not pretended that this is a cosy haven of haute cuisine. He calls it a brasserie, and the menu works perfectly in that description.

And, folks, it’s five stars all the way, even though I arrived bridling a little at the stern injunction that we would have the table for not more than two hours. I had visions of waiters trying to drag me out while I finished my pudding, but in the end it was all done at a pleasant, measured, pace, and two hours was more than enough.

My Chief Culinary Adviser enjoyed an artichoke tart that was Wareing at his best – glorious pastry, perfectly cooked and seasoned globe artichoke hearts and a simply superb tarragon dressing.

Main courses were, as expected, rather pricey, but very good indeed. My adviser’s fillet of poached halibut, nestling shyly in a wonderful champagne sauce with small, tasty, mussels, was a joy to eat.

I ordered the chicken pie because they promised that it was cooked with girolle mushrooms. It turned out that they were chanterelle mushrooms, but my disappointment lasted only until I began to eat the thing, and it was simply excellent.

Desserts were truly tempting and in the end we decided to share some baked bramley apple with a meringue and clotted cream. The apple had been cleverly sliced so that it was a manageable disc of fruit topped by a cluster of crisp meringues. The clotted cream’s job was to cut some of the sweetness of the dish, and it carried the task out to perfection.

There is a slightly irritating £2 per head cover charge, but in the end I was impressed to see that our bill came to under £100 at £93, including a glass of wine and service. It’s a simple equation really – quality costs money, and you have to get used to that.

SUMMARY: Near faultless, clever, interesting and engaging food by Marcus Wareing in superb surroundings. Open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Expect to spend around £42 a head before drinks and service. There is an early supper menu (5.30 to 6.30pm) at £19 for two courses, £24 for three.

Rating: 4 Out Of 5 Stars

THE GILBERT SCOTT
St Pancras Renaissance Hotel
NW1 
020 7278 3888
reservations@thegilbertscott.co.uk
www.thegilbertscott.co.uk