Published: 15 December, 2011
by LOTTIE MOGGACH

A few weeks ago, I used this space to rue the existence of office Christmas lunches, but I’d now like to make an amendment to that rant.

They can exist, but only as long as they’re helping to keep places like Andy’s Taverna in business.   

Those who live in Camden Town will know Andy’s.

For those who don’t, it’s on an unprepossessing corner of Bayham Street, was established in 1967, and the menu and décor has barely changed since.

As a result of the influx of Greek Cypriots into Camden after the Second World War, there used to be many such restaurants. Now there’s only a few old-school Greek places left in NW1.

Anyway, the point is that Andy’s, being good value, reliable and unpretentious, is the kind of place that’s popular for group meals; especially, it seems, with public sector workers.

My brother, a teacher, says that schools often use it, and Petros Ochtaras, the owner, told us over our houmous that the restaurant is a favourite haunt for the police – officers from as far away as Hendon and central London are regulars.

Or were regulars. Petros, who has been there since 2004, says bookings have been down this Christmas. And, indeed, on the Thursday night we went, it was pretty near empty.

But where would they have gone instead of Andy’s? It’s hard to imagine a more easy-going or cheaper venue; the Christmas menu costs £15.95.
Maybe office meals now consist of standing outside Camden Tube sharing a kebab.  

We tried to compensate for the absence of others by grossly over-ordering.

First came with olives and dips – houmous, one made with aubergine and another with feta – all made on the premises, accompanied by warm white bread.

Then, some grilled halloumi, fried prawns, broad beans and artichokes and calamari – the latter, coated in too-thin batter, was the only disappointing dish.

They were just our starters.

Next came mixed kebabs for my friend and spanakopita for me, vast portions both. And chips. Oh, we tried the kleftiko – a hunk of tender, braised lamb with roast potatoes – as well. And three different types of sausage. You probably don’t need telling that this is hearty, unreconstructed food.

We noticed that on the Mediterranean-blue walls, among the photographs of family and customers, and old women struggling up steep steps in whitewashed Greek villages, there was a large photo of Camden High Street as it is today, with the giant sculptures of trainers affixed to shopfronts.

It was the only thing in the room that couldn’t have been from the last century, and one can only hope that Andy’s will still be here when those trainers are long out of fashion.
 
Summary: Good, traditional Greek food in long-established Camden taverna. Approx £20 a head.

Andy’s Taverna
81a Bayham Street
NW1 OAG
020 7485 9718
www.andystaverna.com