Published: 02 September

IT'S good to see L’Absinthe full most nights, because this has been a graveyard of restaurants, with the ghosts of Pukkabar, Chalcots and Le Petit Train among those haunting the premises. They all failed partly because people simply didn’t like eating in a basement.

But Jean-Christophe Slowik put a roof over the atrium and created a decent-sized ground floor restaurant space that looks busy and inviting.

Then there is his Gallic charm. He has lived in England for 22 years, but has protected his thick accent like a work of art. But he is also a serious professional. Many of those years were spent working with Marco Pierre White, so J-C knows about restaurants.

Starters include leeks vinaigrette with a poached egg, a salad Lyonnaise with croutons, lardoons and a poached egg, and snails à la bourguignon. They do a superb classic French onion soup – an intense broth with croutons and oodles of chewy cheese. My Chief Culinary Advisor tried the excellent mar­inated herrings draped over a little hill of potato salad and served with a terrific shallot dressing.

Main courses are equally traditional, including Duck confit and Toulouse sausages. 

My Adviser opted for Scottish rib eye with a pepper sauce. This was an awesome steak, tender and full of flavour. This is a chef who loves his own steak frites!

I tried the more than reasonable menu du jour (£9.50 for two courses!) and was delighted with a Bayonne ham and emmental salad, followed by a wonderfully rich and intense boeuf bourguignon with rice. The bill for two-course lunch, including a glass of wine, coffee and service, came to just over £37, which is remarkable value.

Rating: 4 stars (out of 5)

L’Absinthe, 40 Chalcot Road, Primrose Hill, 020 7483 4848

SUMMARY
French bistro food served with enthusiasm and an authentic accent. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday. Around £22 a head before drinks and service.

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